"thank you for your note... yes the ryokan got the key..." - the booking service attendant confirms that the temple in Mt. Koya received the key we forgot to deliver at checkout.Those who had the patience to read my previous posts, will remember my description of our trip from Mt. Koya to Miyajima as an example on how everything goes according to expectations in Japan. The single small unexpected detail during that day was cased by me when I forgot to deliver the room key at checkout from the Henjoson-in temple…

I noticed I had the key in my pocket during the trip down Koyasan's Cable Car, and when we arrived at the Gokurakubasi station I asked the station manager if he could deliver the key back to the temple. Despite our language differences he understood my request and answered politely that he would… And so it was… And… For some reason I'm not amazed, this was the thing to expect...

Typically I finish one trip focused on the next… Not that there are no plans crossing my mind this time, but for some reason memories from Japan don't let go easily. Many have asked me about the trip, and many received the same kind of answer containing something on the lines of: "Between good and bad things Japan is still a civism lesson for everyone…"

"You know the sound of two hands clapping. What is the sound of one hand?"… - The 1'st "Zen koan" from Alex Kerr's book "Lost Japan"…

Besides travel guides this was the only book I took with me to Japan… The idea was to read it during the trip, but I only started reading on my trip back… Today when I woke up at 5 am due to jet lag reading the rest of the book looked like the thing to do…

While reading I wondered if I should have better read the book before or after the trip as I did. In one hand Alex's personal vision of Japan differs from what's written in travel guides in a way I found by myself to be closer to my own vision. On the other hand if I had started before the trip I would not have enough context to enjoy the book as I did…

One idea from the book is that Japan is fascinated by secrets and the quest is always more important than knowing the final answer… This means that most of my inner questions about Japan probably won't be answered, but at the same time the quest will make me wish to go back there again and again.


Like any other country Japan is far from perfect… Although being a pleasant and safe place, the country is visibly destroying it's natural beauty in trade of progress and there's a clear disconnect between the present and the past as western influences taken to extremes seam to dominate the life of Japanese people…

Kyoto is a good example of a disconnected place as far as I see it… I did not read much about the city, and I just took for granted from the travel guides that Kyoto should be the number one travel destination in Japan. Don't get me wrong, Kyoto is nice, but it's also a place where past seams to be disappearing bellow thick layers of concrete. The temples in Kyoto may be between the most magnificent in Japan, but somehow the silent and calm spirit of being in Japan does not seam to be there.

The proud owner of the Yamatake-Shõten restaurant in Takayma told me that Kyoto was a copy of Takayama, at that point I though he was exaggerating, but after arriving in Kyoto, I found out that he was just wrong… Kyoto may have been similar to Takayama in the past, but not anymore… Being small and isolated, Takayama looks much more genuine and appealing to my senses… I hope Japan will understand this on time for protecting the roots of each place...

As usual, when finishing a trip that we ready to start it… We come back thinking about the next time, but most probably the next time wont exist in the near future as there are other places to discover...

My quest is yet to be unfolded… I came back with more images that ever from any other place, but at first they look as disconnected and superficial as Kyoto was to my eyes… I'll have to give them and myself time to settle and find the way… I'll probably have to go back over and over again, but most probably my images will just show small steps... Secrets and prcecise answers don't look urgent anymore...

"yes we can change your reservation, no problem..." - The attendant at Japan Railways tells us that she can change our reservation so that we don't have to wait one hour for our next train…In the day before I had one of my last silent meditation moments… I was at the sacred precinct in Koyasan, creating images of the temples at night. Each image took around 4 minutes so I had plenty of silence for myself. During my last couple of images (before exhausting the camera battery completely) I had the company of a monk doing his prays… I don't remember what I though about, only that my spirit was in peace…

(If you did not do so before, take a deep breath now)…

On paper, our plans for the next day looked somehow crazy (they would probably be outside Japan): Our day started at 6 am, attending the morning prays in the Henjoson-in temple where we had spent the night (as Sara said in her comment to my previous post this is something someone has to do once in life), at 7 am we had breakfast (a feast to the eye and the belly), at 7:30 we had a Taxi waiting for us to take us to the Koyasan Cable Car Station, we took the cable car at 7:45 and arrived at the Gokurakubasi station by 7:50...
At 7:55 we took the local train on Nankay Koya Line to Hashimoto, arrived at 8:55 and changed to the Nakai Rincan express departing at 9:15 and arriving in Osaka (Nankai Namba Station) at 9:44… Then walked for 6 minutes a caught the Osaka City Subway on Midousuji line (not sure about the departure na arrival for this) to the Shin-Osaka station where we had a coffee and asked our reservation to be changed from the SHINKANSEN HIKARI RailStar 461 departing at 11:19, to the SHINKANSEN HIKARI RailStar 459 departing at 10:59 to Hiroshima, arriving at 12:28…
We then took the local train on JR Sanyo line at 12:49, to Miyagimaguchi, walked for 5 minutes and took the JR Ferry Boat to Miyagima (I'm also not sure about the times for these, but probably nobody's reading this to this point)…There you go… 437 km… Everything as expected, except for the early arrival due to the reservation change granted as something completely normal… Outside the spiritual side of things this is Japan for you…
I'm writing this in the SHINKANSEN HIKARI 384 departing from Himeji at 17:59 and arriving in Tokyo at 2140 (644 km) the last leg of the trip before heading back to reality tomorrow…

"please take off your shoes..." - The signal precedes the entrance of each temple or Shrine, and without knowing all the reasons for the ritual it just looks rigth…


I can't help thinking about what went on during the 10 years since I 1'st came to Japan. At that time I had no idea that traveling would become an addiction and that photography would also come into the equation…

I've learned through life that there's no purpose in asking why for things that just happen… I'm sure I'm glad I got to go to every place I did, and I'd like to come back from each place with images that fulfill my feeling of being there, but I never seam to accomplish this entirely…


Back to Japan, I'm not a religious person but I have to admit that I like to be around and inside temples and Shrines in Japan… Not just for how they look, but also for the peace they transmit and for the feeling that there's lots of room for improvement in everything we do...